Manhattan - Where Eating Borsch is a Revolutionary Act
Beloved Ukrainian Diner in the East Village Becomes Rallying Point for Pro-Ukrainian Activism Amidst Russia Invasion
Seeking to offer solidarity, New Yorkers are gathering at Veselka, to show support for their Ukrainian neighbors following the Russian invasion of Ukraine that began on February 24th. The iconic Ukrainian diner has become the unwitting coordinating point for donations and pro Ukrainian activism.
Veselka has served traditional Ukrainian staples alongside no-fuss diner favorites to the East Village since 1954. They have provided comfort food to generations of Ukrainian immigrants in the city, and their delicious menu serves as an introduction to Ukrainian culture for outsiders - making it the first place that many thought of when Russia escalated threats of invasion.
“People started calling almost as soon as it happened and we didn’t really have answers for their questions,” said Gary Koenigsberg - manager at Veselka. “Things like ‘Where can we buy a Ukrainian flag?’, and we had no idea. But we made it our business to know.” According to Mr. Koenigsberg, the restaurant has found a huge uptick in support, and now features a near constant line around the block. “I’m not Ukrainian, and at first I didn’t think I got it, but now I kind of get it.” he said. “People want to be somewhere where they can be around the culture.”
This was certainly the case for a mother and son that spent the estimated 45 minute wait time for seating buzzing about the dishes they most wanted to try. “We live in Hoboken now, but we did specifically come here for Veselka,” they reported. “Our family is from Ukraine, Hungary, Poland, that kind of area. So we came here to support that.” When asked what they were most looking forward to they exclaimed “The Goulash! Yeah, and the pierogies.”
Veselka’s queue for takeout was similarly bustling. A young Ukrainian woman waited patiently outside the front door. Her coat was blue and yellow, a nod to the colors of the Ukrainian flag also seen dotted amongst the crowd, hanging in the front window, and even frosted on cookies by the register. For this woman, who asked not to be named, Veselka is a connection to home for her and her family. “We are not through here often, because we live far from here. But anytime when we come to New York City, we always always visit Veselka. And we are so happy they support Ukraine.”
She discussed her favorite foods with a glitter in her eye, “the best thing I can recommend is varenyky with cherry and cheese…this is the best thing. They have something like a nalysnyky. This is something like a roll with a farmer's cheese inside. It's so sweet and so delicious.”
However, she turned serious when discussing what she felt was important for the continued support of Ukraine. “For this moment? I can tell the one thing that is really crucial is to close the skies for us. Yes, just to save our life, our kids' life, our future for now it's for Ukraine, but it's not just about Ukraine. It's about the whole world.” She turned to look at the line and continued, “But the most important thing for us, [is that] we can see support from other people from other countries and this is important, this is amazing. You know, this is giving our soldiers, our people who stay there, more belief in themself and being stable too. Ukraine will be independent, you know, we'll never be dependent on somebody because we know how much our grandfathers paid to be independent.”
The atmosphere has a new charge to it, and returning diners will no doubt notice the additions of handmade signs tacked along the hand painted murals of Ukrainian symbols reading, “Stand with Ukraine,” and “Putin Hands Off Ukraine.”
Veselka has partnered with Razom for Ukraine to provide monetary assistance, donating 100% of the proceeds from borsch sales to the organization. Razom for Ukraine - an organization operating primarily out of Ukraine seeks to “maintain a relentless focus on the needs on the ground to support Ukraine and on opportunities to amplify voices from Ukraine in conversations in the United States,” according to their website. Customers waiting in line pass posters of QR codes with a link to donate. These QR codes are also placed on every table for patrons to take advantage of once they’re seated, and are at the center of a pop-up prompt on the front page of the Veselka website.
Veselka is also coordinating material donations, distributing flyers and signs with long lists of supplies needed on the ground in Ukraine including “yellow heavy duty tape, AA/AAA batteries, sterile saline wipes, men’s underwear and t-shirts” and many other items relating to medical/family care, military support, and emergency survival. The supplies are taken from Veselka to St. George’s Ukrainian Catholic Church, according to Mr. Koenigsberg, where they are sorted and sent to Ukraine.
New York City has the largest Ukrainian immigrant community in the United States - according to the New York City Department of Planning, over 150,000 Ukrainains call the city home. New York will continue to be a hub for Ukrainians as many flee the war. As Gov. Kathy Hochul promised in a statement made on Feb. 24th, the day Russia launched its invasion, “Just as the Statue of Liberty stands tall in our harbor, New York stands ready to welcome Ukrainian refugees.” With newly displaced Ukrainians set to enter the country, the familiar comfort of the handmade dishes at Veselka will no doubt play a part in welcoming the city’s refugees from this tragic war.
